This year marked an end of an era in New York Fashion Week as Bryant Park will no longer serve as the venue in which a plethora of designers debuted their Fall 2010 RTW collections. The more prominent trends this year were layers, American sportswear, lots of fur and leather, neutral color palettes, and of course a "new take of everyday basics," as Tim Blanks put it. My favorite collections this season were Anna Sui, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Preen, DKNY, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Thakoon.
Anna Sui is not a regular favorite, yet I did find her Ready to Wear collection very refreshing with the various types of embroidery, prints, fabrics and subtle use of furs, it was almost a new take on retro. It was a very optimistic collection for fall, bright colors and even bolder prints.
Like Anna Sui, Rodarte is also not a regular favorite but there was something so alluring about this collection that I could not help but fall in love with it. Everything from the soundtrack, to the runway decorated with white confetti and candles, to the pale makeup and use of chiffon, lace, and sister’s trademark knits was reminiscent of a ghost town and sleepwalking, “between the awake and the asleep.”
Drawing inspiration from schoolgirl wear, street culture, and graffiti prints, the Proenza Schouler collection had great magnetism and sex appeal. It was tough, modern, edgy, and one could say almost fetishist with an innovative take on the preppy schoolgirl look. The heavy shoes, use of furs, and subtle glimpses of skin made the collection incredibly sexy.
Preen took tailoring, floral prints, and cut outs to a new level with the Fall 2010 collection. It was the perfect mix of hard and soft elements in a single collection. The duo also used a great amount of neon colors, crop tops and layering, however the most memorable parts of the collection had to be the billowing cocoon coats and bustiers.
Donna Karen epitomized layers this season with her DKNY collection, the perfect look for freezing temperatures. Yet there was also a sense of retro schoolgirl meets Sherlock Holmes with the neutral palette and use of toggle coats, tailored vests, wool coats, plaid and color block patterns. DKNY also had my favorite shoes this season.
More layers, knits, and bold patterns were found at 3.1 Phillip Lim this season. The collection also seemed to be a fight between the disco and punk movements from the sequins and gold pantsuit to the heavy leather and animal prints. Plus the shoes from this collection were just amazing from forest green heels with tassels to mustard booties.
The use of wools, animal patterns, furs, and play on hoods gave Thakoon a very different look from its usual whimsical appearance. The collection remained very romantic, the billowing blouses, classic jackets, and use of texture, from the details on the sides and shoulders of various dresses to the variety of furs used. This collection was overall more mature and darker than previous ones.
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